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Corvette "C2 - Midyear" Body Mount Locations
and Body On Replacement Guide

click on images for larger view

 Frame/Body Mount Locations


Coupe Assembly Instructions


Original Body Mounts

Body Mount #1

Body Mount #2

Body Mount #3

Body Mount #4


Images and below narrative are for a 1965 Corvette Coupe w/side exhaust and may be different for convertibles, undercar exhaust and other years.

There is also another "BODY" mount which I will call "#0" that is located in front at radiator support that also needs attention. I did not replace or remove #0 I just loosened as much as possible to allow movement.

I compiled below check list for items that need to be disconnected or removed from various post from people who have replace body mounts. No particular order and not all may be needed.

Items in "YELLOW" are items I disconnected or removed.
Item in "BLUE" are items I kept close watch on but did NOT disconnect or remove.
Remarks in "RED" are what I did.

Battery (Drivers Side) - Removed
Tire Carrier - Removed
Steering Column -
Disconnected at coupler

Oil Pressure Line
Tach Cable at Distributor
Throttle Linkage - Disconnected
Clutch Rod @ Cross Shaft - Disconnected

Brake Line(s) or Master Cylinder -
Disconnected MC from booster
Fuel Line at Gas Tank
- Loosened clamp
E-Brake Cable - disconnect or loosen
Side Pipes - Removed
Seat Belt Anchors from Frame -
Disconnected - don't forget the rear center anchor
Front Bumpers
Rear Bumpers - Removed
Rocker panels -
Outer Splash Shields -
Inter Splash Shields -

** I'm sure I forgot some items but you will find them quickly.

Put car on jack stands or lift and remove wheels. Remove or loosen item above then remove body bolts on one side and loosen bolts on opposite side. Place jack with 2x4 wooden block under steel rocker channel (birdcage) on one side, jack up slowly until you can slide old mounts out and new ones in with additional shims if needed (about 1 1/2"). Monitor everything as you jack up that nothing is binding. Lower that side down, put bolts in and go to the other side and do the same. Then snug all mounts including #0 and check door open/close and gaps. Now is time to adjust with shims if needed. After everything check out torque all mounts. I torqued to 25 ft lbs, other say 45 ft lbs, your decision.

That's the easy version J and sounds like a couple hours of work but in reality you need to start a week or so earlier and get access to all body mount and soak daily with some sort of penetrating oil or what ever concoction you use.

I use GibbsBrand   which has worked very well for me over the years. Also start attempting to loosen/tighten back and forth little by little each day until they  loosen or you find out they are beyond all hope and you snap the bolt or the "CAGE" or the cage nut breaks loose and the nut just spins. It this happen you will have to grind/saw/pray to get bolt out. All of mine came out ok so I don't have experience with removing after these type problems. After you have all body mounts loose or out the job is straight forward and fairly easy, just be careful with jacking and insure you have everything removed or loosened. Above all be safe because you are slipping you fingers/hands in a tight spot and if any slippage of jack you won't be able to type and tell everyone of your experience. 


Need 1 1/2" Clearance New vs. Old Jacked Up New Mount


Any and all information contained on this website and/or section is provided and intended solely for your entertainment and enjoyment. You should always consult a professionally trained automotive expert before undertaking any modifications to your or anyone else's vehicle.


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