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Alternator Upgrade

If you're contemplating or need to upgrade you alternator this may help

With the addition of A/C I needed more amps to run blower, radio, lights at night and cooling fans.

I upgraded from original 37 amps to 100 amps which has proven to do the job. Battery gauge rarely moves up or down.

1st of all if you are thinking of upgrading I suggest you read
1 or 3 wire discussion. I did and went with the 3 wire as 1 wire didnt fit the bill.

1 - 3 Wire Article

I used plug & play items

NOTE: This was for a 1965 327/365 check for other years/engine

Alternator from PowerMaster Alternators

PowerMaster 17294 100 Amp 10SI series (Chrome)

Wiring from Lectric Limited

VAK6368SI - ALTERNATOR CONVERSION HARNESS,  simple plug-in conversion allows use of a 1969-85 SI series internally regulated alternator in place of the original external regulator and alternator

VAK6365 1965 ALTERNATOR RELOCATION HARNESS - use when alternator is moved from original passenger side location to driver side. Can be used with all Alternator Conversion Harnesses (above)


My Miscellaneous Information

Holley Street Avenger 670 CFM (80670) using yellow (lightest) spring
Flaming River Tilt steering column - Wiring Diagram

Radio upgrade with AUX port for MP3 - Click Here
Replaced CAM - 327/350 Part # 12364050 hydraulic
Spark Plug Wires - DELCO 508N
Coil - Standard Brand - UC12X
Distributor Cap/Rotor - Accel 8120
Vacuum Advance CAN - BW V375 (VC1765) - B26


General Miscellaneous Information

Note: Below information was collected from various sources and not verified and is not for any specific year or model. So word-to-the-wise is use with caution.

Group 24

Fuse Box text:

Left Side - Top to Bottom




Parking Brake Alarm

10 amp

10 Amp



10 Amp

25 Amp

For Addition of A/C


7 Amp

5 Amp


Panel Lights

4 Amp

5 Amp


Tail Lamps

10 Amp

10 Amp



20 Amp

20 Amp


Headlight warning light:
Each headlight motor has a microswitch on it that's "normally closed" unless the headlight bucket is fully open, and the switches are powered from the headlight switch. If you turn the lights on and the buckets aren't fully open, the micro switch circuit is grounded, illuminating the flashing light in the cluster; when the buckets are fully open (both of them - there's a switch on each bucket, and they're in series), the circuit opens, and the indicator light gets no power.

Radio Speaker:
This is important - If you replace the speaker with a typical current 4-ohm speaker, you'll fry the output transistors in the radio; the replacement must be 10 ohms Most current replacement speakers are 4 ohms and if you use one of those without a matching transformer, it'll eventually blow the DS-501 output transistors in the radio.

Green and black are the speaker wires, and the other plug is radio power (yellow), radio dial light (gray) and ground (black). NOTE: There is a second black pigtail wire from the radio connector ground wire cavity with a ring terminal that screws to the instrument panel brace - make sure that's in place, as it's the ground for the
whole rear end of the car (all lights, fuel tank sending unit, coupe rear blower, etc.).

The stock setup has two pink wires connected to the coil (+) terminal, and the black wire from the distributor is connected to the coil (-) terminal.

A 12-ga. pink wire comes through the grommet in the firewall from the ignition switch and connects to the bottom terminal on the ballast resistor, and another 12-ga. pink wire from the engine harness connects to the top terminal on the resistor (the other end of that wire is at the + coil terminal).

The other pink wire (18 ga.) at the coil (+) terminal is also in the engine harness, and comes from the small "R" terminal on the starter solenoid; it feeds a full 12 volts to the coil when cranking. If the harness is original, both pink wires are crimped to one spade connector at the coil connection.

If the car has a radio, there's also a capacitor attached to the coil bracket - its black lead also connects to the coil (+) terminal.

The only two external ballast resistors ever used on Corvette were 1931385 (0.3 ohm Black Dot) and 1957154 (1.8 ohm Blue Stripe).  All 1965 used 1957154

Mini Starter wiring:
In early original wiring harnesses, the R circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is no connection when the starter is at rest, and is +12VDC while cranking.This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (i.e. HEI, MSD, or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases, this wire can be eliminated. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an R terminal signal. To accomplish this, connect a 3A/400PIV diode (or Powermaster part # 600 or Jegs #555-10038) in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. (Note: This is the terminal on the solenoid which has the cable from inside the starter motor connected to it. It is opposite the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes away from the starter. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and yet not from the coil to the starter.)

Street specs for radial tires:

Front camber: zero
Front caster: 2-2.5 positive (with P/S); manual 1.5 positive
Front toe-in: zero-to-1/16" TOTAL toe-in

Rear camber: zero-to-1/2 negative
Rear toe-in: 1/16" TOTAL toe-in, split equally across the thrust centerline (1/32" per side).

Oil Filter:

AC Delco


PF 141




AC Delco















Parking Brake adj:
1. Loosen parking brake cables at equalizer until brake levers move freely to the "off" position.
2. Tighten adjusters until discs will not move.
3. Back each adjuster off 10 notches.
4. Apply parking brake from inside of car 4 notches.
5. Tighten brake cables at equalizer to produce a light drag with the wheels mounted.
6. Fully release parking brake handle and rotate the back wheels. No drag should be evident with the handle released.
7. Try burnishing the shoes.