Black_Magic
Classic Auto Air Install Notes
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| One of my winter project was to install Air Conditioning.
While doing research to pick a unit (I was down to two (Classic Auto
Air (CAA) and Vintage Air (VA)) when a Corvette Forum Member offered a uninstalled CAA unit for sale (less then half
price). I immediately made my decision and jumped on the offer.
Now that the install is complete and working GREAT
and
The CAA system is called "Perfect Fit" and it is close but not 100%. I think if you do a search you will find many good threads on CAA installs and each will have a small "DIDN'T QUITE FIT" as I did. Install was on a 1965 327/365 with Narrow (24 1/8 inch radiator) I'll try to break this down into section as best I can remember. |
| Brackets and Alternator:
CAA uses
Alan Grove Brackets and comes with the compressor bracket. To
move alternator to drivers side you will need either the STOCK Alt.
bracket from A/C car or you could use matching Alan Grove Brackets.
BTW:...I swapped out the exhaust manifolds (I
had a 901 & 902) for after market (foreign) and ground off the
mounting brackets. Saved the originals. I got them here ===>>
1A
Auto Here are the CAA/Alan Grove Brackets I used but do your own research.
** NOTE ** they do not come CHROMED |
| Battery Relocate *** NOTE *** This is optional I elected to relocate the battery to the left (Drivers) side as once you get all the hoses installed it will take some disconnecting/moving to get to battery. A/C cars came with battery on left side. Here is a write up on my battery relocate ===>> Battery Relocate |
| Install ** NOTE the kit I was installing was for WIDE (29 1/2 inch) radiator while my radiator is narrow (24 1/8 inch). You can use the wide kit on a narrow radiator but not the other way around. I believe that the wide kit has an advantage as the dryer is mounted on the firewall and somewhat un-clutters area in front of radiator. Wide kit could also help on a 1963-64 getting the hook up tubes from hitting hood. ** You be the judge ** If you follow the instructions from CAA (See Above) and take your time you won't have any major problems. However I suggest you read, read, read and read instruction to visualize each step and see where you can switch/combine steps to make things easier. Example: On page 21 they tell you about a micro switch that may need to be adjusted...At that point you can't get to the switch without taking the glove box back out and then you need to stand on your head to get to it. I took my time
and made minor adjustment to their instructions or changes as
follows:
Hoses:
Defroster duct:
Drivers Vent:
Wiring:
That's the main things I changed. One thing you can't change is the routing of the 2 1/2 inch flex hose under the dash, it only fits one way. If I were doing the install now I would eliminate one of the defrost flex hoses (block off) and free up the extra space. |
| Last notes: Hooked up A/C test equipmnt and pumped it down (vacuum) and let it sit for 10-15 minutes NO LEAKS charged with 24 oz of 134a and the temp at the vents drop to 37 degrees. |
Miscellaneous Pictures
| Firewall Block Off Plate |
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| Dryer and Hoses |
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| Hose Routing |
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| Drivers Vent |
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| Under Hood |
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Final Note: I did this install by myself and am happy the way it turned out. Others have done thing different and they may or may not be better. So let them tell their stories and you be the judge. |
| 2010 Update: While replacing dash pads and having dash out of car I remove one of the Defroster Vent Hoses (Passengers side) thus giving lots more room under dash board. I very seldom, if ever, use the defroster and could have probably removed both. I just added a thin piece of aluminum and duct tape. Make sure you do both ends where you remove the hose. |
Copyright 2007-10 GB Janssen